Vogue | Masteringmedia

Vogue 21st Century

Vogue magazine, first published in 1892 as a weekly society paper in New York City, was initially aimed at the American upper class, covering fashion, social events, and lifestyle trends. Founded by Arthur Baldwin Turnure, Vogue became known for its focus on elegance and refinement. In 1909, Condé Montrose Nast acquired Vogue and transformed it into a fashion magazine with a focus on luxury, style, and art. Under Nast’s leadership, Vogue expanded internationally, launching British Vogue in 1916 and French Vogue in 1920.

By the mid-20th century, Vogue had become a global style authority, known for its high-quality photography, avant-garde fashion coverage, and influential editors, including Diana Vreeland in the 1960s. In 1988, Anna Wintour took over as editor-in-chief, rebranding Vogue to appeal to a broader audience by featuring celebrities on covers and mixing high fashion with accessible style. Wintour’s vision helped Vogue maintain its cultural relevance and cemented its position as a leader in fashion media. Today, Vogue is published in multiple countries and is known for its impactful covers, progressive representation, and cultural influence, spanning topics from fashion and art to social issues and global events.

The Vogue July 2021 issue featuring Malala Yousafzai is a compelling case study highlighting themes of representation, MEDIA LANGUAGE, audience engagement, and industry practices.

Representation: Malala Yousafzai, a Nobel Peace Prize laureate and advocate for girls’ education, is depicted on the cover in a modern, sophisticated way that aligns with Vogue’s fashion-oriented brand while challenging traditional representations. Instead of stereotypical depictions of activists as serious or solemn, Malala is shown smiling and relaxed, representing young, empowered voices. This portrayal breaks from Western media's typical narratives around Muslim women, often framed as victims or marginalized figures. By featuring Malala, Vogue underscores a progressive shift in the representation of women from diverse backgrounds, acknowledging her activism, intellect, and influence beyond her cultural and religious identity.

Media Language: The use of MEDIA LANGUAGE in this issue of Vogue aligns with the magazine’s luxurious, aspirational tone while carefully choosing elements that communicate Malala’s uniqueness. The cover presents a minimalist design, with Malala dressed in understated, elegant clothing and minimal makeup. This contrasts with Vogue’s more glamorized portrayals, suggesting respect for her authenticity and values. The layout, choice of soft colors, and font choices convey sophistication and modernity, framing Malala as both a role model and an icon. This visual language invites readers to connect with her on a personal level and challenges typical “fashion” narratives, instead focusing on her story and mission.

Audience: Vogue primarily targets a fashion-conscious audience with a global perspective, usually appealing to middle and upper-class women interested in style, trends, and culture. By featuring Malala, Vogue broadens its appeal to socially conscious readers and young activists. This cover allows Vogue to connect with Gen Z and Millennial readers who admire Malala’s advocacy and are concerned with social justice, inclusivity, and diversity. Her presence on the cover may also attract audiences who do not traditionally read fashion magazines, inviting a broader readership interested in stories of empowerment.

Industry: Vogue’s choice to feature Malala reflects changes within the media industry towards more inclusive representation. Traditionally, Vogue covers have centered on celebrities and models, but including global change-makers like Malala highlights the magazine’s adaptation to societal shifts. It shows Vogue’s response to calls for greater representation of varied identities and values in media. By putting a young Muslim activist on the cover, Vogue leverages its influence to reflect the growing demand for diversity and authenticity in media, aligning its brand with contemporary cultural values while setting an industry precedent.

In summary, Vogue’s July 2021 issue presents a nuanced portrayal of Malala Yousafzai that breaks stereotypes, connects with new audiences, and reflects broader industry trends toward inclusivity. This case study exemplifies how media can use representation and MEDIA LANGUAGE thoughtfully to engage audiences and adapt to changing cultural landscapes.

How does Vogue portray Malala Yousafzai on the July 2021 cover, and why is this representation significant?
In what ways does the cover image of Malala challenge typical media stereotypes of Muslim women?
Explain how the use of MEDIA LANGUAGE, such as color and layout, communicates both Malala’s uniqueness and Vogue's aspirational tone.
How does Vogue’s choice of minimalist design and Malala’s natural look contrast with the magazine’s typical, more glamorized portrayals?
Why might Vogue’s decision to feature Malala appeal to younger, socially conscious audiences, like Gen Z and Millennials?
Describe the core values of Vogue's usual target audience and discuss how Malala’s feature expands or aligns with these values.
How does the choice of cover elements (such as Malala’s relaxed pose and expression) invite readers to connect with her on a personal level?
In what ways does Vogue’s inclusion of a global change-maker like Malala reflect larger trends in the media industry?

Industry
Vogue magazine, a leading publication under Conde Nast, has maintained its dominance in the fashion media industry for over a century. Its success lies not only in its prestige but also in its willingness to innovate. Vogue's iconic status was reinforced after Conde Nast acquired the American version in 1909, seeing its potential to shape and define fashion culture. The UK edition was launched in 1916, broadening its global reach.

Vogue's ability to stay relevant over the decades stems from its business strategies, including high-profile celebrity collaborations, risk-taking editorial decisions, and investments in new formats like color photography in the 1930s. Its collaborations with iconic artists such as Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali, along with using celebrities on the covers, reinforced its avant-garde image, distinguishing it from its competitors.

The magazine’s business acumen is further reflected in its venture into new media and services, including its fashion and design college, luxury conferences, and even a Vogue café. Conde Nast’s acquisitions, such as Advance Publications in the 1960s, encouraged modernization, which helped propel Vogue into a new era of boldness. Its editorial choices, including hiring Anna Wintour as editor-in-chief in 1988, allowed the magazine to shape fashion trends globally.

Audience
Vogue has consistently targeted a socioeconomically affluent, middle-to-upper-class audience. The magazine has catered to women who aspire to a luxurious lifestyle, offering a glimpse into the worlds of high fashion, celebrity, and wealth. Throughout its history, it has successfully kept a balance between offering its readers aspirational content while also reflecting the evolving social and cultural climates.

The magazine's audience, largely in the 18-45 age range, seeks a curated view of fashion, beauty, and lifestyle. In recent years, the audience has also expanded to include men and younger generations, particularly with the launch of Teen Vogue and Men’s Vogue. The digital transformation of the publication has allowed it to reach younger, tech-savvy readers through its social media presence and digital editions, ensuring that Vogue stays relevant in a rapidly changing media landscape.

Despite its broader appeal, the magazine’s content is still heavily catered to those who are financially able to engage with the aspirational lifestyle it promotes. This includes showcasing high-end fashion, exclusive celebrity interviews, and luxury products that might not be accessible to all of its readers but remain a part of the magazine’s allure.

Representation
Vogue's representation of gender, ethnicity, and social class has evolved over the years, but its legacy remains rooted in how it has historically portrayed these concepts.

In the 1960s, women were frequently depicted in passive, domestic roles, often shown nurturing children or in leisure settings. These portrayals were reflective of societal expectations of women at the time, but they have been criticized for not fully representing the increasing autonomy of women in the post-war era. On the other hand, the magazine also shifted these conventions, particularly under Anna Wintour’s leadership, by focusing on empowering women who defy traditional standards, embracing celebrities and bold personalities. The rise of "Teen Vogue" and "Men's Vogue" signaled a move towards more inclusive representations, expanding the magazine's focus beyond traditional gender boundaries.

Vogue's representation of ethnic minorities has been limited, with White models predominantly featured on the covers and in advertisements. Though the magazine has made significant strides in diversity in recent years, it has been critiqued for its underrepresentation of Black, Asian, and other minority ethnic groups, particularly in the 1960s when it mostly relegated these individuals to background roles. Vogue's use of exoticized imagery, like featuring a Black woman in an exotic or subservient position in the 1960s, reflects the Westernized, colonialist attitudes of the time. Today, the magazine has made efforts to diversify, with a broader range of models and influencers representing a more inclusive vision of beauty.

The magazine’s editorial content and visual style have long appealed to those from the upper classes, with many of its advertisements and articles focusing on wealth, luxury, and aspirational lifestyles. In the 1960s, content frequently referred to aristocracy, fine art, and the cultured, upper-class lifestyle, further reinforcing the magazine’s image as a publication for the elite.

Media Language
Vogue's use of media language is a key element of its success, employing sophisticated language, compelling visuals, and cutting-edge design to communicate an aspirational lifestyle to its audience. The magazine’s editorial voice is authoritative yet aspirational, guiding its readers in the realms of fashion, beauty, and social status.

The magazine is known for its high-quality photography and editorial styling, often using dramatic lighting, close-up shots, and luxurious settings to emphasize the opulence associated with its content. This visual language helps reinforce its brand identity, conveying an image of exclusivity and sophistication.

In terms of written language, Vogue often utilizes formal, highly descriptive language, particularly in its fashion and beauty articles, aligning with its target audience's expectations. The magazine’s use of rhetorical devices, such as rhetorical questions in advertisements ("Are you woman enough to wear them?"), is designed to provoke thought and appeal to its readers' desires for social validation and luxury.

Vogue also uses its media language to stay relevant in the digital era. Social media platforms, such as Instagram and Twitter, allow the magazine to connect directly with a younger, more diverse audience. The language on these platforms is often more conversational, aligning with the tone of the younger generations it now caters to. The digital presence of Vogue demonstrates its adaptability and ability to speak to its audience in multiple formats.

By continuously evolving its media language and representation strategies, Vogue has maintained its status as an influential global brand. Whether in print or digital form, it continues to shape cultural conversations around beauty, fashion, and identity.

Questions to Check Learning:

How did Conde Nast’s acquisition of Vogue contribute to the magazine’s success in the fashion media industry?
What strategies did Vogue use to stay relevant during the early 20th century and beyond?
How has the audience for Vogue evolved over the years in terms of demographic and media consumption?
What role has Vogue played in shaping the perception of luxury and aspirational lifestyles?
How has the representation of women in Vogue changed over the decades?
In what ways has the representation of ethnic minorities in Vogue been critiqued, and how has it changed over time?
How does the magazine use media language, both in print and digital forms, to maintain its brand identity?
How has Vogue expanded its reach and audience through digital platforms and social media?

The Vogue magazine, launched in 1892 in the United States, is one of the most iconic publications globally. Its UK edition, launched in 1916, has become a beacon of high fashion, celebrity culture, and Western consumer capitalism. Understanding how Vogue constructs its media language, audience, and representation is crucial in analyzing how it aligns with both contemporary and historical cultural norms. This guide will explore these aspects using the EDUQAS set edition of Vogue, focusing on media language, audience, industry practices, and representations.

Industry

Vogue is published by Condé Nast, a major media company that has expanded the brand into various digital platforms, products, and other media. The magazine was launched in the United States in 1892 and came to the UK in 1916. Throughout its history, Vogue has adapted to market trends, becoming a global symbol of luxury fashion and aspirational lifestyles. This editorial shift reflects David Hesmondhalgh’s concept of profit and power, where brands, particularly in the media industry, consolidate power by maintaining an elite, aspirational audience and using profit-driven methods like targeted advertising.

Condé Nast’s success with Vogue can also be seen in how it has managed to maintain its prestige and relevance throughout the 20th century and beyond. The magazine's continued success during the World Wars, the Sixties, and in the modern digital age shows its resilience and adaptability. Condé Nast has diversified its approach, creating a multifaceted brand that extends beyond the magazine itself, integrating Vogue into fashion and lifestyle products, collaborations with designers, and digital platforms. This allows the magazine to minimize risk while maintaining its brand's exclusivity and appeal.

Audience

Vogue traditionally targets a wealthy, middle-to-upper-class demographic, often focusing on women aged 25-44. These readers are likely to have a high disposable income and a keen interest in fashion, lifestyle, and culture. Psychographically, the audience is sophisticated, with a preference for luxury goods and a lifestyle that aligns with high status. This demographic is primarily based in urban areas, where exposure to international fashion and trends is most prevalent.

The magazine's audience is also highly global, reflecting its status as an international symbol of luxury and style. In terms of gender, Vogue has long been seen as a women's magazine, but over time, it has expanded to cater to both male and female readers interested in fashion, design, and culture. By consistently maintaining its brand identity while expanding its reach, Vogue reinforces its cultural capital and positions itself as a key player in global media and fashion.

Representation

In the 1960s edition of Vogue, representations of women are a complex mixture of empowerment and objectification. For instance, the “Heatwave Holiday” feature highlights women as independent travelers, yet they are often objectified through their poses, costumes, and facial expressions. Judith Butler's theory on gender performativity can be applied to understand how these images both construct and constrain the identities of women. The portrayal of women in Vogue often walks a fine line between empowerment and objectification, with women depicted in active roles but also in highly stylized, passive poses for the viewer’s gaze.

The magazine’s portrayal of ethnicity and race also speaks to cultural power dynamics. For example, the cover image of Sophia Loren, while presenting a powerful image of femininity, also evokes an "orientalist" narrative, where Loren’s exoticism is fetishized, reinforcing Western cultural dominance. Non-white individuals in the magazine are often portrayed in subordinate roles, reflecting colonial-era power structures and contributing to a narrative of "otherness." This reinforces Edward Said’s concept of Orientalism, where non-Western cultures are exoticized and stereotyped to support a Western worldview.

Media Language

Vogue uses a sophisticated media language to appeal to its audience, with high-end photography, elegant fonts, and a lavish presentation that aligns with its image as a luxury brand. The masthead’s French typography conveys cultural sophistication, while the polished visual style of its advertisements and editorial spreads reinforces the idea of glamour and exclusivity. Roland Barthes’ concept of “mythologies” is evident in how Vogue uses these elements to create a cultural myth of beauty, wealth, and aspiration. This media language serves to position Vogue as not just a fashion magazine, but a cultural artifact that reflects and shapes societal ideals.

The imagery in Vogue is also highly symbolic. For instance, the cover photograph of Sophia Loren is loaded with cultural codes that suggest both luxury and sexual objectification. Her pose, clothing, and makeup are all part of a carefully constructed visual language that reinforces traditional femininity and Western ideals of beauty. At the same time, the image of Loren wearing a turban and jewels introduces a layer of exoticism, inviting the viewer to engage with her as an "other" within a postcolonial framework.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the set edition of Vogue analyzed here demonstrates how the magazine constructs its identity through media language and representation. By appealing to an affluent, culturally aware audience, Vogue reinforces both aspirational and traditional ideals. At the same time, the representation of women, gender roles, and ethnicity reflects both the cultural context of the 1960s and broader societal shifts. While Vogue has occasionally pushed the boundaries of representation, particularly regarding female empowerment, its portrayal of race and class remains firmly rooted in Western, consumerist ideologies. Understanding these elements is crucial for analyzing how magazines like Vogue continue to shape and reflect cultural narratives today.

How does Vogue’s use of media language (e.g., typography, photography, and layout) reflect its brand identity and appeal to its target audience?
In what ways does Vogue represent women as both empowered and objectified in the 1960s edition? Provide examples from the magazine.
Explain how the cover image of Sophia Loren in Vogue reflects cultural power dynamics, particularly in terms of Western consumer capitalism and Orientalism.
What is the significance of Vogue being a product of Condé Nast in terms of its global reach, profit-driven model, and brand diversification?
How does the representation of women of color in Vogue reinforce or challenge traditional power hierarchies in fashion and media?
How do the advertisements in Vogue, such as for Cutex or Imperial Leather, reflect and reinforce traditional gender roles and expectations for women in the 1960s?
What is the role of Vogue in shaping cultural ideals of beauty, wealth, and aspiration? How does this align with Barthes' concept of “mythologies”?
Discuss how the audience for Vogue can be understood in terms of both demographics and psychographics. How does this impact the magazine’s content and style?